Tony, Tony, Tony...You've Hurt Me

Dear Tony,
My dear, sarcastic-yet-lovable and awesome Tony. I write this with regret because up until now I've loved you unconditionally. I've laughed at every dig you've landed at the often dim-witted contestants on Top Chef. I've read your blog as though a religion unto itself. I've praised your style and awkwardly good-looks to friends of mine. I felt a connection.

But we need to talk. About what you did to and with Cleveland on No Reservations not so long ago. I remember fondly the day I heard you would be traveling to my beloved homeland to, what I assumed would be, showcase the ways in which the city has hung in during hard times. I was sure you'd hang in up-and-coming Tremont, venture up and around the Case Western Campus, and check out the bohemian shades of Coventry. I couldn't wait to see it. I was thrilled that you would revel in the unique cuisine in a city dominated by countless varieties of Slavic and Eastern European cultures.

And then I saw the show. And my heart broke. And then I got angry. Instead of celebrating the city, which is in dire need of some celebration, you took your size 12-cowbooted foot dangling off that impossibly lanky leg and gave it a sharp kick like a dog on the ground. Not only do you start the start off at Skyline Chili which is 1) a fast food chain 2) FROM CINCINATTI but then you proceed to find the crazy, anti-social Harvey Pekar as your personal tour-guide and SYMBOL of the entire CITY. Of course you met up with Toby, apparently the one friend of Pekar and Cleveland's version of Rainman, to guide you to the Free Stamp only to stand and make fun of it. Clearly relevant because all Clevelanders must harbor some degree of autism and general weirdness. But wait, I forgot to mention the visit to the Sewer Surfers, numbering in the 10s of Clevelanders--most of them transplants from other surfing-friendly climates, who themselves have not embraced the city. Every Clevelander I know 1) wouldn't step foot in Lake Erie 2) in February or really any other month for that matter. Of course, there was also the lame drag race in the broken down warehouse district just to make sure the desolation and down-troddeness of the city that you repeatedly claimed you loved showed through.

And then, only after all other shenanigans had been exhausted, there was the food. As an afterthought to stomping on the apparently cobbled-together inferior culture, that included the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame that you hated not only in reality but also on principle, of what clearly for you is "the mistake on the lake" (despite the deep and abiding love you professed repeated), you ate a couple things. Cincinatti chili, a beer chilled by the snow over by the sewer drain, and just for good measure, pure aerated high fructose corn syrup from a pipe in a book warehouse that once produced Twinkies. I was particularly glad you showcased this as that is so typical of Clevelanders--nothing says a good end to the day like a shot of 30-year-old Twinkie filling straight from the pipe. Ah, but that's Cleveland for ya. While you did head over the the University Inn for some home-cooking that actually spoke a sentence about the ethnic background that still pervades and defines Cleveland down-home cooking, you completely glossed over the greatness that is Michael Symon and "Lola" both as a culinary destination and as a cornerstone of innovation and a breath of life in what is the slowly-rebuilding cultural scene. Of course, how could you concentrate when Jimmy Ramone was stuffing his face as though he'd never eaten before. And just to make sure that the slap on the face you were intending to serve up held its sting long enough to make it meaningful, as the great culmination of this expedition--YOU COOKED AT HOME with two things you bought at the famous West Side Market. Conclusion: Nothing says Cleveland like " I'm going to run away from the depressing and apparently slightly retarded social fabric of the city and escaping to a rich friend's house in the suburbs to cook for myself and try to forget I'm in Cleveland." Well done. Bravo.

Truly, Tony, congratulations. For a man who prides himself on seeking out, exploring and celebrating the uniqueness of every place you visit, you managed, in grand fashion, to mimic exactly what every other influential person has done to this city and thus personally contributed to its continuing depression. Now you're just another asshole on tv who questions an investment in the city thereby questioning the value of the people who love it and call it home. Frankly, save it. Oh, and please--I'm begging--do us a favor and don't come back.

We are so totally not speaking right now.

"Top Chef" is Tops

There truly are a lot of reasons to love Bravo's "Top Chef."It's awesome reality television. Here's why the recipe works:

1. Really interesting food challenges. It's been progressive across the seasons; now in it's third season, we're seeing some really cool food prepared beautifully (I'm sure it smells awesome--if only they'd hurry up with that "smell-i-vision" idea) but under impossible time and/or budget constraints. The contestants have to rise to the challenge consistently--and usually they do.

2. Tom Colicchio as the "head judge." This guy is a great mixture of gruff Burgess Meredith in Rocky ("C'mon Roc!) and really refined and respected opinions in the food world. He makes great television because he does not appear elitist--he might be finicky and an utter nightmare to work for (which is strictly hypothetical--I have no idea) but we'd never know it. Other judges from the culinary world appear "bitchy." Not Tom. Not only do I trust what he says but he also rocks the "Mr. Clean" look that just makes him so darn cute. I'd love to sit down and have lunch with Tom.

3. A stable of past contestants involved in the current season. Leanne Wong (Season 1) is the food producer (she devises the menu/rules for the challenges and tests them) and she's really brought the level of cooking up with demanding yet really innovative challenges. Both Harold Dieterle (Season 1 Winner and my overall TC favorite) writes an incredible blog responding to the most recent episode as does fan-favorite Sam Talbot (Season 2 Final Four). While I don't read them, Ilan Hall (Season 2 Winner) and infamous Marcelle (Season 2 Runner-up) also give their two cents in blog form. What's nice about this is not only some continuity to the show (this presence seems to make it more fulfilling in a way that other reality shows are not--have you heard from Colby, the winner of one of the middle "Survivor"s recently?) but they also provide the really interesting behind the scenes details. They've walked in those Crocs--they know the pain of a Quickfire challenge intimately and hearing their takes on things adds yet another dimension to an already good show.

4. Really good guest judges. Out of the four judges on the panel, one is always a guest from the culinary universe. In the past seasons, they've been kinda lame (with some notable exceptions). Season 3 has brought out some really famous chefs. Although some say they've gone more commercial (lately Rocco DeSpirito was hawking his Bertolli frozen dinners), I don't care. It's people I know which makes it all the more fun when they saw awful things about how the chefs mutilated the challenge. Definitely ups the train-wreck factor.

and last but certainly not least: 5) Anthony Bourdain (often guest judge) is now a regular blogger about the show! I couldn't be more thrilled. The regular judges' blogs have been good (especially Tom's and Gail Simmon's) but because of schedule conflicts, Tom's had to "take a leave" from blogging for awhile. Bourdain filled in a couple weeks on Tom's blog but now he's got his own and it's awesome. It's a mini Kitchen Confidential every week and I'm drinking it in. Thank God for Anthony Bourdain.

And more on Top Chef Season 3 to come; it's getting good now and the cuts are starting to get more important...and painful to watch.